Bulbs, Bulbs, Bulbs

An image showing the various packages of bulbs we offer at the nursery.

September is that glorious time of year when the Spring blooming bulbs begin to arrive at the nursery. Tulips, Daffodils and Hyacinths have started arriving, and we expect most of our bulbs in the next few weeks. Amaryllis are always the last to arrive and should be here by mid-October.

When deciding where to plant bulbs, consider that bulbs look best when planted in groupings, masses or swaths rather than planted singularly. Early bloomers like Hyacinths and Crocus are ideal in the front or foreground of garden beds and all spring bulbs are excellent in formal, informal, rock, woodland and cottage gardens, borders, and containers. They are showy when interspersed in a perennial garden, planted in striking color combinations and in bold masses throughout the garden. They are remarkably effective in drought tolerant and cactus gardens at announcing the arrival of spring without affecting the watering or maintenance routines as most spring blooming bulbs need little to no more water than what is provided through our rainy season. It can be helpful to intersperse companion perennials or annuals to fill the voids created when they have completed their spring show, and their foliage is fading.

Culture:

Plant bulbs in full sun to part shade although most will perform better in full sun. Each type of bulb will specify the spacing and depth at which they should be planted. Fertilize when planting and when the first shoots emerge from the soil. Plant once the nights are cool and the soil temperature has dropped – late November and December are ideal months for planting. Plant in well-drained soil, rich in organic matter, water the bulbs in and then withhold additional irrigation until the foliage emerges.

After blooming, cut the spent flower stalks to the base but do not remove the foliage. Wait until the foliage dies back naturally before removing. Knotting or braiding foliage is not recommended as it interferes with the plant’s creation and storage of energy needed for the next season’s bloom. After the foliage has completely died back, remove it.

There are a few ways people deal with bulbs at this point:

Some people will dig up the bulbs, clean, and dry them thoroughly, storing them in a well-ventilated manner in a cool, dry, and dark place until fall.
Others elect to treat their bulbs requiring chilling as annuals, digging them up, composting and replacing them annually.
Some will leave the bulbs in the ground knowing that there may be some loss in the quantity or quality of the plants and blooms in subsequent years if conditions are not ideal. Excessive summer water, the lack of mulch and organic matter in the soil, and in the case of tulips, our lack of an extended period of near freezing temperatures, all will have a negative effect.

Special Care - Chilling: Tulips and Hyacinths need particular care in the Bay Area as we do not have the cold winters required for them to thrive. Persistent low temperatures are necessary in their dormancy to trigger proper bloom and for them to process stored nutrients which will feed and rebuild the plant.

They need to be refrigerated (40 degrees) for a minimum of 6 weeks (preferably to 14 weeks) annually before planting for them to consistently bloom. If they do not receive this chilling annually, they tend to die off, be stunted, bloom in the leaves at the soil level or sprout with no blooms. Note: Do not store fruits or vegetables in the refrigerator at the same time as they can give off ethylene gas, which can kill or delay the flower buds. Also, do not chill them in the freezer – the cell walls will burst. Plant them immediately after removing them from the refrigerator and avoid placing them in direct sun while awaiting planting.

An image of red, white, and yellow tulips in bloom — Thanks @bangyuwang!

Our most popular bulbs:

An image of an orange-red and yellow tulip. Thank you @jawis

Tulips: We have Darwin Hybrid, Early Season, Late Season, Parrot, and Triumph forms. Depending upon the variety, the flowers can range from 18-24” in shades of white, yellow, pink, red, apricot, and purple. It is recommended to select a variety of early and late season tulips to create a longer bloom season. Tulips are not generally deer resistant (unless identified as such).

Three Narcissus flowers in bloom. Thank you @mohammadix.

Daffodils/Narcissus: We have Large Cupped, Trumpet and Double Flower varieties. Depending upon the specific variety, they typically produce a large flower on one stem, typically 14-16” tall. In our region they can naturalize in the ideal conditions of a dry summer. They are not likely to survive in an irrigated bed. Deer resistant in most gardens.

Blue flowering Hyacinths in bloom. Thank You @yoksel

Hyacinths: Hyacinth bulbs produce one very fragrant spike of floret clusters in shades of blue, purple, pink, yellow, and peach that stand 8 to 12 inches tall. Deer resistant in most gardens.

Blue flowered mascara (Grape Hyacinths) in bloom. Thank you @tomrootstudio

Muscari (Grape Hyacinths): Each bulb creates 4-8” stalks of clusters of bell-shaped blue flowers. Deer Resistant in most gardens. These do not need any chill period to flourish

We carry an array of lesser-known bulbs which are amazing and thrive in the Bay Area. Many of these bulbs perform for years in the garden with little or no additional effort from you other than seasonal fertilization. Come in and check them out once they are in stock in late September.

Bulbs, Bulbs, Bulbs